Day 115, mile 2,001 (76% of the trail)

Camped 20 miles from the road where I hitched into Sisters, Oregon. Dreadfully kitsch town, but I got to eat lots of fruit and drink soda. The motel didn't have my package. I asked them to forward it if they receive it tomorrow but I suspect that will fall through, in which case I'll have to buy a new set of merino baselayers in Portland (not too hard to get to from Cascade Locks). $100 shirt doe. I shared the motel room with Dirty B and Spoon Train. The debauchery they've gotten into since Campo is a side of the trail I haven't seen. We drank and mused on how many hikers have quit so far. He thinks around half have left, I think at least 20%. On the way out of the motel this morning I ran into Pineapple getting breakfast with her boyfriend, who's joining her on the trail. Offered them the rest of my bourbon, which they accepted. Not carrying that glass bottle, my titanium flask is full. My ride back to the trail hiked in 2000. He told me of the Washington storms. I'm wondering now how many days, if any, I'll spend in motels waiting out bad weather.

Day 108, mile 1,818 (69% of the trail)

Made it to Crater Lake. Knee is holding up, I've now over 200 miles on it. Trail is very hot with not much views, but I found raspberries and huckleberries that made it all worthwhile. 

On the way up here I stopped in Ashland, Oregon. That was a cool town with nice people, pourover coffee, and bumper stickers that said, "be weird." I swear the day hiker I met on trail spoke in NPR voice. Welcome to Oregon. Stayed at a hostel where I was bunk mates with Quick Change (Switzerland). She was shocked that I was this far behind the herd, since we crossed paths in the desert a few times where I was pretty brisk. Explained the injury and the off-trail time. She's trying to catch up with her hiking partner, I'm just trying to book it. Next morning I took off. 

I've been looking at the trail registries and have noticed a lot of names absent, including many strong hikers. Overall with fewer people in the trail, it's gotten quieter and less idle. I'm pushing for high miles so I'm either walking, eating, peeing, or sleeping. It's a little less fun being rushed, but the earlier I get to Washington the more likely I'll avoid the waves of cold fog and rain. I miss my trail crew, but I'm foremost trying to complete the hike efficiently. 

Day 101, mile 1,647 (61% of the trail)

I got back on the trail three days ago at Etna, mile 1,597. My mileage for these days has been 7, 18, 24 (today). My body feels like it could do 6 more miles today, but my feet do not. After my two week break, my soles have softened and start aching at 20 miles. Before all this I was hiking marathons with ease. I predict I'll be in the low-mid 20s for at least a week, and hopefully consistent 30s by the time I finish Oregon. The Oregon Challenge (crossing the whole state in 14 days) is out the window though. 

My knee has the slightest twinge of pain at the left edge of the patella. When I left Bishop it was extremely faint and I figured it'd be gone by the time I'd start hiking three days later (two days to get to Etna via bus and train, one rest day in Etna). Can't really tell if the pain is different now. Not good that it's still there, on the other hand it hasn't flared up after a 19 mile downhill. Will just have to hike and see. 

So, about the trail. NorCal is really hot. It's not as drab as I expected, but it's about as hot as the desert was. There's more water though. The views haven't entirely ended, and today I passed by the Marble Mountains, which are these lumpy peaks of white marble. I've realized that the second half of the PCT somewhat mirrors the first. This time it's an 800 mile gauntlet to Cascade Locks, at which the trail enters the Washington Cascades. 

5 August, off trail

I’m home in Bishop. A few days ago I was in Burney, thinking about returning to the trail. I could still feel soreness in my right knee. That was on a sidewalk, on the trail it’d be worse. This was taking longer than anticipated. I relented and decided to go home and see a physical therapist. After a redeye bus and train ride from Redding to San Diego, I took another bus to Tecate where my truck was parked at a trail angel’s house. (Did you know California transit could do this? I did not.) I wanted to get to Bishop soon and not at all settle down, so after getting lunch at a Korean restaurant in San Diego, I made a straight shot for Bishop 6 hours north. On the way up the 395, I passed signage for Warner Springs, and saw the McDonalds at Cajon Pass, and saw another sign for the turnoff to Kennedy Meadows. These all seem very long ago, but steeped in memories.

The physical therapist saw me for half an hour and recommended taping my knee to keep it centered. I’ve always been envious of those hikers with legs crisscrossed by neon athletic tape, so this is a welcome development. I’ll be doing the exercises and stretches he recommended for a few days, then be heading back to the trail some time next week. Not sure if I’ll skip up to Dunsmuir (mile 1,500) or Ashland, Oregon (mile 1,716).

Some minor gear changes. I’m ditching my really cool titanium mug and tea infuser, saving me 3 oz. Loose leaf tea brewed with pristine alpine water on a cold Sierra morning was unreal, but it’s going to be hot for a few hundred miles. I am also pressing into service my Delorme InReach (2-way satellite communicator and rescue beacon). You can track me at http://share.delorme.com/jc. This is mostly for fun, Oregon isn’t especially hazardous. It will have more value in Washington though. There could be rain and snow, and I can request weather forecasts on the InReach. Also throwing in some Body Glide to prevent any bouts of butt chafe in this heat.